This article was posted 07/14/2006 and is most likely outdated.

Grounding vs Bonding: 250.122 Sizing Equipment Grounding (Bonding) Conductor
 

 
Subject - Grounding vs Bonding: 250.122 Sizing Equipment Grounding (Bonding) Conductor

July 14, 2006  

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250.122 Sizing Equipment Grounding (Bonding) Conductor.

(A) General. The equipment grounding (bonding) conductor must be sized in accordance with Table 250.122, based on the ampere rating of the circuit-protection device, but in no case is it required to be larger than the circuit conductors. Figure 250–169

Author’s Comment: Equipment grounding (bonding) conductors must be capable of safely conducting any ground-fault current likely to be imposed on them [110.10]. If the equipment grounding (bonding) conductor isn’t sized to withstand the ground-fault current, the conductor may burn clear before the protective device responds.

Table 250.122—Minimum Size Equipment Grounding (Bonding) Conductor

Protection Rating.......CopperConductor
15A..........................14 AWG
20A...........................12 AWG
30—60A..................10 AWG
70—100A..................8 AWG
110—200A................6 AWG
225—300A................4 AWG
350—400A................3 AWG
450—500A................2 AWG
600A...........................1 AWG
700—800A.............1/0 AWG
1,000A.....................2/0 AWG
1,200A.....................3/0 AWG

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Figure 250–169
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Comments
  • I've often told my cowokers that's just as unsafe to oversize the conductors then to undersize. Is this correct and can you give an example. They don't seem to understand.

    David Stewart
    Reply to this comment
  • Reply from: Mike Holt   
    Since you made the statement, what do you base your statement on?
    Reply to Mike Holt


  • I can think of no reason to think it is unsafe or dangerous to oversize a conductor. I know of no engineer who would deliberately size a conductor smaller than the ampacity of the overcurrent protective device. I have seen engineers use 500 MCM Cu for a 20' run to the service grounding electrode, whereas the NEC requires no more than a 3/0 for the largest service. Unless you have a voltage drop or some other impedance issue to consider, I believe it to be a waste of valuable copper or aluminum. I would like to hear you reasons for believing this to be a problem.

    Thanks / Phil Pulliam

    Phil Pulliam
    Reply to this comment
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    > > > > >
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  • Mike, I was at the seminar july 14, 15. It was unbelievable, one of the best experiences of my life. No only did I learn electrical code and business techniques, but I also learn how to be a better person by looking at life from a different angle.

    Thank you.

    Rafael Fuentes
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  • 240.4(B) is one of the LIES in National Electrical Code. Almost every if not all manufaturers of thermal magnetic circuits breakers state that using a conductor that is less than the rating of the circuit breaker will result in the breaker tripping at a lower current level than it should. As someone who has extensive industrial electrical experience I have to know what Code rules are a bit of a lie. A lot of Code rules are based on acceptance of a life of 10 or 15 years in heavy service. This is not good for production if you have to require once every 10 years.

    When reparing a 100 amp electrical service I insist on using #2 copper or #0 aluminum. A 100 amp service is either very lightly loaded or very heavily taxed and very rarely in between.

    Remind your customers than when they heat up a wire that is "Code" size what they are doing is paying for electricity and not getting it. More electricity will reach the load if the wire is bigger than Code. Circuits will always live longer if the wire size is a bit bigger. In a corrosive location you also need extra wire size so that the conductor can be 1/3 eaten before replacement is required. Some corrosive such as ammonia gas are very hard on copper wire and even if you RTV ( silicone sealant ) the heck out of box lugs there still might be a way for corrosive gases to get inside of the cable.

    Another LIE in NEC is that the cord for an underwater swimming pool light has to be long enough to permit replamping without draining a pool. If you have ever fixed a boat dock in 3 to 5 feet of water you find out very quickly that buoyancy keeps you from turning a wrench or a screwdriver. A pool is what NASA uses for zero gravity training. The problem is that when changing an underwater light you need both scuba gear and enough weights to be a poor excuse for the Titanic. There are only so many times that a homeowner can spend $500 on changing a light bulb before going out and buying a fiberoptic refit kit.

    Pentair still makes 120 volt and 12 volt underwater incandescent light fixtures so that that can sell to cheapskates who cannot resist an alleged bargain. I am still trying to figure out who makes fiberoptic refit kits but I am sure that someone makes them.

    Mike Cole mc5w at earthlink dot net

    Michael R. Cole
    Reply to this comment

  • I forgot to mention that if you need to do a small distance 30 amp circuit in conduit you need to use #8 copper which most places will cut to length. It is so much harder to find a place that will cut #10 THWN and 500 feet of the stuff costs like $100!

    Michael R. Cole
    Reply to this comment


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