Mike I am puzzled by your comments. To quote you "Separately derived systems (SDSs) include most transformers as well as any generator or UPS supplying a transfer switch that opens the neutral conductor." The NEC answers such questions in 250.30 by providing the requirements for SDSs. It is code, protects the frame of the generator and allows GFCI to operate properly.

True, the generator driven rod ground does nothing to help fault clearance (except GFCI) if Nuetral and ground to the load are correct. I do like how they specified a 24 inch rod, funny.

Most portable generators sold in the U.S. have the neutral bonded to the frame. They are built and intended to be used as a portable power source and MUST be connected to a ground rod for safety. The 2014 NEC Article 445.20 REQUIRES that all cord and plug connected portable generators 15Kw and smaller have GFCI protection. This will require the neutral be bonded to the frame. The CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission) also has a similar requirement regarding neutral to frame bonding. In Michigan and in many other states the NEC is adopted as a state statute. Removal of a legally required safety device (Neutral-Frame bond) is not a smart idea IMO. Most generator manufacturers will also void the warranty when the neutral-frame bond is removed. The best option for using portable generators connected to building wiring systems is to install them as a "Separately Derived" system using a 3-pole transfer switch that switches the neutral. This will REQUIRE the installation of a separate ground rod for the generator. It MUST BE connected to that ground rod prior to each use. Note: See 2014 NEC Article 702.7 (C) and 702.11(A) & (B). This leaves the Neutral-Frame bond and the required GFCI protection in place and the generator remains safe for use as a cord and plug connected portable.

The link to the manual does not work. This one should.

manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69671.pdf

It appears to me that the ground rod they are asking for (24" in the dirt) is not something that the code even recognizes as it does not meet the requirements to be any of the code recognized GE.

It also appears to me that it won't hurt anything in a standalone operation. It won't any good, but it won't hurt anything. It would essentially be a non-compliant auxiliary electrode.

If it was to be connected as a backup power source to an existing electrical system, it would need some thought on just how it was hooked up to be safe.

I think the manual is poorly written and probably written by someone who does not understand either the purpose for grounding in the first place, nor the NEC requirements for such things.

First a warning: Read Mike's (and other's) lessons on the importance of proper BONDING and GROUNDING and the tragedies caused by floating-neutrals before embarking on this exercise!!!!!!

What you don't know, WILL KILL YOU!!!

1) If you are using your generator as portable power, and not using it as backup power for your house or business, then IGNORE this post! 2) Also, if you are using this generator as backup power for your building AND you are using a transfer switch that switches the neutral as well as the hots, then IGNORE this post. 3) If you are using this generator for backup power for your building and you are using a transfer switch that only switches the hots (or not using a transfer switch at all, and just back feeding a couple of breakers - which is NOT advised or code-compliant for that matter) than this is the post for you.

I have Harbor Freight's 4200W generator wired as backup power for my mountain cabin. IF you are using the generator to back feed your house's main electrical panel, you will need to remove the outlets' cover on the generator and unbond the neutral from the ground. On my version, the neutral and ground are connected on one of the standard 110v outlets, which of course, bonds the entire output of the generator. Once those connections are seperated, THEN you will be able to connect the 4-wire plug to the main panel.

it is Very VERY V-E-R-Y important to not have your ground and neutral connected ANYWHERE (the generator, an outlet in the house, extension cord, ANYWHERE) except inside your main panel.

Before making the connections in your panel, use a continuity meter to test the generator's 4-wire outlet; touching the ground (the connector with the hooked plug) and the neutral (the larger of the remaining 3 holes) and make SURE there is NO continuity between them. Better yet, touch every combination (ground-neutral, ground-hot1, ground-hot2, hot1-hot2, hot1-neutral, hot2-neutral) and make SURE that NONE of them have continuity. Once you're certain the four wires are all separate, then you can connect the generator to your main panel.

If you EVER disconnect the generator from the house and use it as a stand alone power source, you will need to REBOND the ground and neutral on the generator, and follow the generator's grounding instructions BEFORE EVER starting the generator. If you don't, it will KILL you!

Why can't I view the instructions or your video?