Howdy, should the installation shown have a disconnecting means direct after the meter socket?

i was wondering why not run all the way with pvc pipe? thanks John H Ledger

Why waste the money on steel

Cantex makes factory bend that are schedule 80. Steel just adds extra friction not to mention that extra threaded adapters are needed.

Michael R. Cole, mc5w at earthlink dot net

The ALLOWANCE for the un-gonded stee elbows is to serve for long and difficult pulls. On a long pull the pull rope can dig into the inside surface of the elbow, saw through to the earth, and keep pulling untill the wire gets to the little slot and stops. The steel elbows are not germane to the question of overcurrent protection below the meter.

If you doubt the ability of the rope to saw the pipe, try sawing a nylon string across a PVC conduit. I have used this method to cut pipe that was down in a trench without having to open a bigger hole below the conduit for the hack saw.

On a shopping mall job in Pensacola some 30 years ago, the conduit was in, the pole bases poured, and the asphalt finished wehn the contractor started pulling the long runs of wire for the extremely high light standards. When every way failed to pull the wire the last few feet, from either direction, the contractor gave up and dug down to the conduit. Finding the rope some foot out in the dirt and a slot in the elbow explained why the wire would not pull!

Very helpful

A bare copper conductor would effectively bond these while an insulated bonding conductor will not. Though in this case it seems rather unlikely that an injury fault would occur, it is possible for unbonded sections of metal conduit to become energized. It also seems 'most likely' that an installation with PVC risers would use PVC bends (most people would 'assume' that from looking at it, and think that is an important issue for any installation). The the cost of 'rated' connectors and bends to make four transitions from ridgid to PVC as shown make it an unlikely choice. The preferred method would be to make custom bends from full sticks of PVC since most damage to conductors occurs near connectors adjacent to bends whether caused by grit mixed in glue drips, rocks, or burrs and dents in metal. Though the code requires a bonding conductor, it makes no issue regarding insulated or bare. For example: the place a bare bonding conductor would prevent the most 'Hazard to Electrician Faults' is probably metal flex drops that become disconnected and cut into a hot wire. This applies to poorly installed EMT as well, and who hasn't gone onto a job and found those? Here's my favorite though: I was doing an energy upgrade for a sprawling remodled commercial establishment and found a panel with a 22 amp 208VAC 'phantom' load. The circuit fed parking lot lights with photo-cells. My first 'clue' was a new 50 amp breaker feeding old #8 wire. The owner had pavers remove a string of old concrete bolsters that were initially roadway light bases, and pave over them. It happened to rain the day I was testing the parking lot lights and noticed an area two feet wide and ten feet long steaming. I pointed out the 'dry' spot to the owner. Upon digging the spot up we discovered backhoe damage, unbonded conduit, and buried connections. His response was 'how much has this been costing me?' A bare copper conductor would prevent the breaker from being reset in any of these cases. The code is not a design tool, it is an absolute minimum legal standard. Complying with this minimum is not necessarily good work practice.

I think using EMC Elbow is a good idea as far as pulling wires but what will happen on the long run for that steel elbow being under ground. Is in it going to rust and were out. And then affect the wire inside the raceway. If any of you know the answer for that one please advice.

Are you aware of a curriculum that would include a new home layout and all the areas of the NEC that would address the electrical layout of the home?